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Shenandoah Valley: Garden Field Trip

October 7, 2012

This year I’ve been fortunate to visit several private and commercial gardens and farms. One of my favorite farm tours was Abbondanza, Shenandoah Valley, which means abundance in Italian. The farm’s entitlement is also reflective of owner Daniel D’Agostini, retired ecology teacher, leader in school garden programs, renowned photographer, and author of Into the Earth: A Wine Cave Renaissance.

D’Agostini’s passion for horticultural first developed while growing up on Abbondanza among a bloodline of farmers and grape growers. During D’Agostini’s teaching career, he introduced organic gardening to his classroom curriculum. In 2000, he established a large school garden at Barry Elementary in Yuba City, where students experience hands-on organic concepts, and yes, eating veggies, a product of their labor.

After teaching more than twenty-five years, D’Agostini returned to his childhood home to care for his mother. Although she has passed, D’Agostini remains on the inherited property and home where he practices a blend of organic, permaculture, and Biodynamic techniques. According to D’Agostini, “My methods are guided by an inquisitive mind that sees interconnections between everything.” His farming systems include cow manure compost contained by straw bails (two high), compost teas made from yarrow, chamomile, dandelion, valerian, oak bark and nettles, cow pat (http://www.biodynamics.in/CPP.htm), and buried cow horns in producing preparation 500 and 501 (http://krishisewa.com/articles/2011/biodyn.html).

D’Agostini germinates seeds in a greenhouse he built from new and repurposed materials. Seasonal transplants then go into a half-dozen raised beds he constructed a few feet from his home’s back door. In a clearing beyond the raised beds, he grows over 70 tomato plants, lavender and corn crops. Mindful of his artistic spirit, a variety of vegetable seeds were direct-sown in a huge S-shape bed. Also on the five-acre property are English walnut trees from his childhood, a mission fig planted by D’Agostini’s mother in 1914, and other various trees and vines.

During the farm tour (sponsored by MotherLode Harvest), D’Agostini shared tips such as hand pulling weeds, rotation, and cover crops to control fungal and pest problems, and helpful books including Pests of the Garden and Small Farm:  A grower’s Guide to Using Less Pesticide, available at Amador County Master Gardener Office.

D’Agostini’s produce is sold at the Plymouth Farmer’s Market, and periodically used at Taste, The Union, Amador Vintage Market, as well as the MotherLode Harvest (http://www.mlharvest.com/)

For more information on D’Agostini’s school garden work go to:

http://www.dagostini.com/School_Garden/school_garden/school_garden.html

To view D’Agostini photography go to:  http://www.dagostini.com/

Note to my readers:  My refurbished computer arrived and it’s working wonderfully. I love Windows 7. However, it seems that Softcom isn’t maintaining their dial-up system and the connection fades in and out while I try to open my blog or other sites. I guess wireless equipment takes priority these days. This means I still can’t post from my house. Until other options are available in the rural area where I live and garden, I’ll have to post when I have the time to load up my laptop, articles, and photos and go to a Wi-Fi site. Thank you for hanging in with me. I hope you enjoy this article.

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Watermelon Uses

August 30, 2012

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I didn’t plant a vegetable garden this year because the nearby trees have squeezed out the sun’s rays. Vegetable plants need at least six hours of full sunlight. It is not an easy decision to leave raised beds bare. So much work went into the boxed construction, soil prep, and waterline installation.

However, a couple of volunteer watermelon vines popped up in the westerly edge of one bed. Here the foliage captured enough sun for photosynthesis. Excited about the prospect, I watered the vines with great expectations. I weeded the soil with care. I watched with eagle eyes for voles. Then come harvest, I ate a feast of round, pink pulp so sweet it was like kissing pure sugar. Delicious!

But watermelons are not limited to mouth-watering bites fresh off the vine. There are many uses for this juicy treat, some of which include watermelon:

  • Seed tea to cleanse your kidneys
  • Roasted and salted seeds
  • Seed spiting contests
  • Mosaic seed art
  • Anti-aging rind
  • Smoothies
  • Alcoholic beverages
  • Soda
  • Punch
  • Pureed soup
  • Jelly
  • Frozen fruit pops
  • Pickled rinds
  • Ice cubes
  • Hollowed-out canteens or salad bowls
  • Centerpieces
  • Carvings
  • Face pack for soft, supple skin or for sunburns and suntans
  • Grated watermelon facial scrub

If you can believe it, there are even more uses for watermelons. But only a cowboy would utilize a watermelon for a hat rack!

What did you do with your watermelons this year besides eat them?

Have a fun, safe Labor Day weekend!

Posted from the library!

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I’m still here, gardening, getting my hands dirty!

August 14, 2012

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Dear Friends:

I’m typing from one of the library’s computer stations. Since I am able to get into my blog from here, the problem appears to be, in-part, my eight-year-old home computer.

I’m sorry for taking so long to figure this out and to let you know, but life has been one heck-of-a-ride the past four months. I see that everyone has remained subscribed and I thank you for understanding. There’s lots of material to review at inandaroundthegarden.net so please use it, and send your friends this way.

I may have to rob a bank, but I will be back when I can get the problem resolved!

I hope your summer has been rewarding and fun.

I pray your dreams are evolving,

And your life is abundant. –Dianne

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Six Steps to Healthy Plants

April 12, 2012

Dear Friends:  Just as it happened a couple weeks ago, my computer, browser, dial-up connection, or ALL THREE has been as slow as a slug crossing the garden path—thus no posting until this evening. I logged in many times off and on since Monday, then waited an hour or so hoping the posting page (where I upload the articles and photos to publish) would open, but no luck. While I apologize, I also ask that you understand this could happen again. Lately, it seems to happen more often. If I had tech skills, the slug (or slugs) causing all the problems would never make it across the path. Instead, it would see the bottom of my old garden shoe.

Whether you’re a notice, passionate or occasional gardener, by following a few steps you can keep your plants looking their best. These simple effective steps introduce you to the basics of healthy plants that will reward you for years to come.

  1. Zone:  Select plants for your zone by buying from local nurseries. Utilize the knowledge of nursery persons, neighbors, garden club members, cooperative extension agents, and master gardeners.
  2. Size:  Minimize pruning by placing plants and trees where they have ample growing space for maturity, away from buildings and overhead utility lines. Avoid overcrowding plants so they don’t have to fight for nutrients.
  3. Exposure:  Sufficient light is one of the most important elements to plant growth. Improper light duration and magnitude can stunt growth, burn foliage, or even kill plants and trees.
  4. Temperature:  Select plants that will survive in your areas lowest winter temperatures. Most plant tags provide cold/heat zone data listing minimum hardiness and heat tolerance temperatures.
  5. Water:  It’s no secret plants can’t live without moisture. When and how much water a plant needs will vary according to the variety and soil type. Don’t put water-loving plants and trees in an area with little water or drought resistant plants in soil with poor drainage. Follow a regular water schedule using timers wherever possible.
  6. Nutrition: Nutrients is crucial to plant health. Your soil’s texture and fertility will determine how much and what you need to add for moisture retention, proper drainage, or organic material. A simple soil test kit (available at most nurseries) will provide data on your soil’s composition. The three main ingredients plants need are: Nitrogen (N) promotes vigorous leaf growth. Phosphorus (P) encourages good development of roots, flowers, and fruit. Potassium (K) promotes cell division and strong stems.

Follow the above tips and your plants will give you satisfying results year after year.

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Spring Awakening: An Easter Poem

April 8, 2012

MyFreeCopyright.com Registered & Protected

The hens lay their eggs again; I gather a daily yield

The grass grows tall; the pastures emerge green

I mow more often the lawn and fields.

Alone I garden, in deep regard this spring

For passionate labor and good things received

Including the sacrifice of Jesus, His abundant love

Come spring, come Easter, come every day

A solace to the human race.

Copyright © 2012 Dianne Marie Andre

Happy Easter family and friends.

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Garden Tips Hints and Cool Things

April 6, 2012

Tips:

1)   Lavender plants:  After new foliage has grown in, cut back by 1/3 to stimulate new growth at base of the plant. Never prune out old wood unless it is dead. For more April tasks, click here.

2)   Now is the time to fertilize all your plants and trees. They are working hard to produce new growth and blossoms so give them what they need to be strong and vibrant. Make it simple, buy one fertilize. Organic manure can be used on any type of plant and tree.

3)  This tip is from blog reader, Georgia O. Although the tip doesn’t have anything to do with gardening, I thought it was important enough to share:  Place the contents of your wallet on photocopy machine. Make a copy, copying both sides of each license, credit card, etc. Keep the photocopy in a safe place. You will know what you had in your wallet and all the account numbers and phone numbers to call and cancel.

A Cool Thing:

1) Check out your garden smarts and learn as you play online trivia games from dozens of garden topics.

2) FREE for the taking:  1) Large Eucalyptus trees, could be 40 plus feet tall–some maybe 2 ft. in diameter. Must know how to fall trees and clean up after cutting down the trees. Makes great firewood or whatever need you might have; 2) Peeler posts if you want wood for borders, decorative staggered heights fencing or firewood. Probably 75 of them and at least 4 or 5 feet is usable. Email me at inthegarden@softcom.net

 


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The Basics: Repotting into a Larger Container

April 4, 2012

Supplies:  Existing potted plant, larger container, potting mix, broken potshards or packing peanuts, trowel, blunt knife or hand weeder, snips, water

1.  Select a new or repurposed container one – two sizes larger than the existing one.

2.  Tilt the container and carefully pull the plant from the pot by grasping the trunk just above the top soil. If the plant doesn’t move, slide a blunt knife down the sides to loosen the roots and try again. When necessary, as seen in the photo above, break the pot by likely tapping it with a hammer. Be sure to wear protective glasses. Plastic containers can be sliced open with a knife.

Tip:  Repot when the plant’s soil is on the dry side (slightly moist). This makes the plant lighter and easier to lift out of its container. Never repot saturated plants, as the roots will separate from the soil.

3.  Carefully loosen the roots with a blunt knife or hand weeder. Trim off broken roots and cut back extra long roots by a third.

4.  Cover the drainage hole with broken potshards or packing peanuts.

Tip:  1) If reusing an old container, scrub the inside with detergent or with a solution of four parts water to one-part bleach to kill harmful organisms. Rinse well. 2) If your container doesn’t have a hole, drill one hole in small to medium containers and two holes for very large pots.

5.  Place fresh potting mix about a third up in the new container. Check the height by gently positioning the plant on the mix. The crown of the plant should be one to two inches below the top of the pot. This will allow space for watering and eliminate overflow.

Tip:  To absorb excess water and gradually release moisture to the roots use moisture control potting mix.

6.  Once the proper height is established, center the plant spreading out the roots.

7.  Add fresh potting mix around the sides, gently working it down with a trowel or hand weeder making sure there are no air pockets. If your container is tall, use a thin stick or heavy-duty non-bendable wire. Be careful not to compact the mix.

8.  Set container on risers and water well. Keep out of hot summer sun for at least a week until the plant(s) can recoup from transplant shock.

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