Posts Tagged ‘plant’

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No-Fuss Shrub

October 26, 2013

heavenly bambooHeavenly bamboo reminds me of Simon Cowell’s unpopular comment made in past years to some of the hopeful American Idol contestants, “You’re just not memorable.”

Although heavenly bamboos are commonplace in commercial and residential landscapes, most people don’t give these shrubs a second glance. They are overlooked or quickly forgotten. Yet, they do have benefits, the greatest being a no-fuss shrub.

If planted where there is ample space there is no need to prune. Mature size is six-feet high and five-foot wide. Heavenly bamboos require little or no water once established, depending on the zone and soil. This multiple trunk shrub is evergreen. In full sun the foliage brings color and interest to landscapes with red leaves and orange berries which turn red in winter.

But, like all plants there is a downside to heavenly bamboo.

As a member of the barberry family (not bamboo), heavenly bamboo is host to wheat rust which can cause large-scale grain crops to fail. Most of us aren’t growing grain and neither are our neighbors. That being the case, this would not be a consideration when selecting heavenly bamboo. However, the berries are toxic to animals, but this can be solved. Usually, when planted alone  instead of grouped together, berries will not develop. Bud clusters can easily be cut off when they begin to develop. Heavenly bamboo is a host for powdery mildew which can spread to nearby plants, especially those prone to mildew.

My personal experience:  Knock-on-wood, mildew has not been a problem. I trim my heavenly bamboos once or twice yearly only because I want to maintain a certain height. I haven’t watered them in years and other than rain they do not receive moisture from nearby sprinklers. Now, that is drought-tolerate.

In addition to being extremely low maintenance and bringing beautiful hues to autumn and winter landscapes, when paired with commentary plants, as seen in the photo, heavenly bamboos are memorable year round. So next time, give them a second glance.

Note:  Cultivars include Harbor Dwarf (2-3 feet high) and Alba (6-feet high) with white berries.

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Six Steps to Healthy Plants

April 12, 2012

Dear Friends:  Just as it had happened a couple of weeks ago, my computer, browser, dial-up connection, or ALL THREE has been as slow as a slug crossing the garden path—thus no posting until this evening. I had logged in many times off and on since Monday, then waited an hour or so hoping the posting page (where I upload the articles and photos to publish) would open, but no luck. While I apologize, I also ask that you understand this could happen again. Lately, it seems to happen more often. If I had tech skills, the slug (or slugs) causing all the problems would never make it across the path. Instead, it would see the bottom of my old garden shoe.

Whether you’re a novice, passionate or occasional gardener, by following a few steps you can keep your plants looking their best. These simple effective steps introduce you to the basics of healthy plants that will reward you for years to come.

  1. Zone:  Select plants for your zone by buying from local nurseries. Utilize the knowledge of nursery persons, neighbors, garden club members, cooperative extension agents, and master gardeners.
  2. Size:  Minimize pruning by placing plants and trees where they have ample growing space for maturity, away from buildings and overhead utility lines. Avoid overcrowding plants so they don’t have to fight for nutrients.
  3. Exposure:  Sufficient light is one of the most important elements to plant growth. Improper light duration and magnitude can stunt growth, burn foliage, or even kill plants and trees.
  4. Temperature:  Select plants that will survive in your areas lowest winter temperatures. Most plant tags provide cold/heat zone data listing minimum hardiness and heat tolerance temperatures.
  5. Water:  It’s no secret plants can’t live without moisture. When and how much water a plant needs will vary according to the variety and soil type. Don’t put water-loving plants and trees in an area with little water or drought resistant plants in soil with poor drainage. Follow a regular water schedule using timers wherever possible.
  6. Nutrition: Nutrients is crucial to plant health. Your soil’s texture and fertility will determine how much and what you need to add for moisture retention, proper drainage, or organic material. A simple soil test kit (available at most nurseries) will provide data on your soil’s composition. The three main ingredients plants need are: Nitrogen (N) promotes vigorous leaf growth. Phosphorus (P) encourages good development of roots, flowers, and fruit. Potassium (K) promotes cell division and strong stems.

Follow the above tips and your plants will give you satisfying results year after year.

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The Basics: Repotting into a Larger Container

April 4, 2012

Supplies:  Existing potted plant, larger container, potting mix, broken potsherds or packing peanuts, trowel, blunt knife or hand weeder, snips, water

1.  Select a new or repurposed container one – two sizes larger than the existing one.

2.  Tilt the container and carefully pull the plant out of the pot by grasping the trunk just above the top soil. If the plant doesn’t move, slide a blunt knife down the sides to loosen the roots and try again. When necessary, as seen in photo to the left, break the pot by likely tapping it with a hammer. Be sure to wear protective glasses. Slice plastic containers open with a knife.

Tip:  Repot when the plant’s soil is on the dry side (slightly moist). The plant will be lighter and easier to lift out of its container. Never repot saturated plants, as the roots will separate from the soil.

3.  Carefully loosen the roots with a blunt knife or hand weeder. Trim off broken roots and cut back extra long roots by a third.

4.  Cover the drainage hole with broken potsherds or packing peanuts.

Tip:  1) If reusing an old container, scrub the inside with detergent or four parts water to one-part bleach to kill harmful organisms. Rinse well. 2) If your container doesn’t have a hole, drill one hole in small to medium containers and two holes for very large pots.

5.  Place fresh potting mix about a third up in the new container. Check the height by gently positioning the plant on the mix. The crown of the plant should be one to two inches below the top of the pot. This will allow space for watering and eliminate overflow.

Tip:  To absorb excess water and gradually release moisture to the roots use moisture control potting mix.

6.  Once you have established the proper height, center the plant spreading out the roots.

7.  Add fresh potting mix around the sides, gently working it down with a trowel or hand weeder making sure there are no air pockets. If your container is tall, use a thin stick or heavy-duty non-bendable wire. Be careful not to compact the mix.

8.  Set container on risers and water well. Keep out of hot summer sun for at least a week until the plant(s) can recoup from transplant shock.

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Soil Analysis: From a Bird’s Eye View

March 26, 2012

While my husband kept his eyes on the road during a Sunday Drive, I took these photos through the windshield

Amazing what the soil, and nature, can produce without our help.

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Bulbs and Weeds

March 7, 2012

Here are two garden reminders that will keep your fingers in the soil, your body fit, and your yard the envy of every neighbor.

For summer color spots and cut flowers, plant bulbs as soon as the ground isn’t too wet or frozen. Buy now to get cream of the crop bulbs. Select bulbs that are firm, not soft. The most common summer-blooming bulbs include lilies, tuberous begonias, dahlias, and gladiolus. For beautiful mixed bouquets throughout the summer months, plant each variety every seven to fourteen days.

 Just what you’ve been waiting all winter to do!

 

“Gardening requires lots of water – most of it in the form of perspiration.” –Lou Erickson

 

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March Gardening Madness

March 5, 2012

The bridge between winter and spring

March is a maddening interval for gardeners. Oftentimes, the soil is still too wet or cold to work. Gardeners go stir crazy itching to dig into the soil, amend beds, and plant until his or her body aches from bending over. Flipping through garden catalogs and magazines only worsens the desire to get close to nature. My solution is to repot, replace potting mix, or create new plantings in unused or new containers.

Conditions for repotting:

Start by checking the existing potted plants around your landscape to see if the plants are root bound or if the mix has hardened, a sure sign it no longer allows good oxygen circulation needed for healthy roots. There are three ways to check the condition of the soil in potted plants:  1) look for roots reaching outside the drainage hole; 2) if the soil is moist, gently lift the plant out of the pot. If there are more roots than soil, it’s time to repot; 3) stick a hand trowel into the soil six inches deep to see if the soil is compacted or fluffy.

Type of outdoor potting mix

These days, most gardeners can’t afford the ‘best’ potting mix but if possible avoid purchasing the ‘cheapest’. Choose an all-purpose blend of organic matter like peat moss, garden loam, or manure, and perlite. Together these will provide proper drainage and oxygen flow to the roots.

Now comes the fun part

Before heading to your local nursery, note the size pot required of each plant being repotted and how much potting mix you’ll need for this task or if you’re simply replacing the old mix. If you’re starting from scratch select plants with same light and water requirements. When freezing temperatures is a danger, protect frost sensitive plants.

Planting up a pot or two will help diminish the stir-crazy itch of waiting to cross the bridge from winter and spring.

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Garden Tips Hints and Cool Things

February 24, 2012

TIP:

To keep insecticides from going into the soil, cut old garden hoses into 24-inch lengths. Close off one end by stuffing paper into the opening. Then slip an old funnel or make one out of paper into the other end and carefully fill leaving room for insects to crawl inside. To prevent pets and children from playing with them, secure with U-shaped landscape anchoring pins. To avoid spillage, remove the stuffed paper after laying the hose in the desired area. Before removing the hoses, keep in a horizontal position and close off each end so the dead bugs and insecticide won’t spill out before properly discarding.

Note:  Always:  1) wear gloves;  2) write ‘poison’ on hose lengths and on the old funnel. When not in use, store out of children’s reach; 3) properly discard paper funnel.

HINT:

To remove garden stains from hands add a teaspoon of sugar to soapy water before washing.

A COOL THING:

The largest rose in the world, planted in 1855 at the Rose Tree Inn, Tombstone, Arizona, covers over 8,000 square feet on a very large trellis.

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Last Frost Date and Why it Matters

February 22, 2012

With the onset of spring-like weather, it is tempting to put away frost cloths and to plant vegetation and sow seeds outdoors. But, don’t let the sunshine, green field grasses, and emerging buds fool you. Frost and frozen ground can kill or damage plants and seeds leaving you frustrated, discouraged, and broke.

If you are new to gardening or have recently moved, ask your local Master Gardener Chapter or professional nursery person for your zone’s last frost date. They can also tell you what zone you live in or plug in your zip code here to find out. But remember there is more than one zone system. Guest writer and master gardener Robin Ivanoff explains here.

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Seed Starting Guide

February 8, 2012

Recently, I came across a FREE, on-line seed-starting guide at Johnny’s Seeds. This is an awesome tool that I hope you will use. Although it’s not a complete list of vegetable and flower crops, it includes those most grown by home gardeners.

In order to explain a couple of things about the guide, I have posted part of it below:

  • Once you are at the link, enter the last estimated frost date in your area (where it says mm/dd/yyyy) and the dates following each crop will automatically  change accordingly. Is that cool or what!
  • In the cell where it says, “Safe time to set out plants (relative to frost-free date)”, the phrase ‘to set out’ simply means ‘hardening off’. This is a horticulture term for placing indoor seedlings outside during daylight to gradually make them more resistant to their new environmental conditions. If you are a gardener who doesn’t have the time or patience to do this and prefer transplanting seedlings directly into the soil, simply protect your tender plants from the hot afternoon sun with a cover cloth until they adjust to the climate.
Enter spring frost-free date (include year):  
mm/dd/yyyy
Crop Number of weeks to start seeds before setting-out date When To start inside Setting-out date
From To Safe time to set out plants (relative to frost-free date) From To
Artichoke 8 19-Feb on frost-free date 15-Apr
Basil 6 11-Mar 1 week after 22-Apr
Beets* 4 to 6 19-Feb 4-Mar 2 weeks before 1-Apr
Broccoli 4 to 6 19-Feb 4-Mar 2 weeks before 1-Apr
Cabbage 4 to 6 5-Feb 18-Mar 4 weeks before 18-Mar 15-Apr

After you utilize Johnny’s Seeds’ seed-starting guide, check out their online catalog. I know several master gardeners who are pleased with their service and products. Have fun with both!

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Soulful Plotting: Garden Term of the Week

October 28, 2011

Bolting: 

Premature formation of flower and seedstalk usually in biennial crops during the first year of growth and in crops during a heat wave.

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